![]() ![]() It stays fresher (tastes less cooked) and there's less caramelization and darkening. Many who read HBT (and other active sites and blogs) have come to learn to ignore kit recipes and will add 1/3 to 1/2 of the extract at the beginning of the boil, the rest at flameout. ![]() But there will be additional caramelization as well as flavor and color changes and reduced attenuation (higher FG). If you do full boils you can boil all extract for the full time (60'). I hate mixed grains, there're always a few questions lingering around. You will have to mill them separately of course, which you've got to specify very explicitly and still watch like a hawk they don't throw them all in one bag, if you don't do it yourself. Lower temp steeps (120-150☏) reduce astringency and the dark liquor can be added toward the end of the boil (at flameout or with 5 minutes left, to pasteurize) to avoid cooked coffee flavors giving a fresher taste. With Porters and Stouts you may still want to steep (and sparge) your dark grains (say 150L and up) on the side, instead of adding them to the mash. I emphasized gravity because volume is really a secondary factor when it comes to beer, IMO. You can add your top off volume in the kettle either after chilling or in the fermentor, to get to the desired gravity. A reduced volume brew can be just as good, particularly when you won't be adding your extract until flameout, so you will be boiling with reduced gravity anyway and get good hop utilization. A small acid addition should put your pH right on the <5.8 target.Īlthough for some beers a full boil is desired (like IPAs), it's definitely not needed for every beer. pH is still an important factor, but it's less finicky as you won't exhaust the grist as easily. Lots more information on this in the brew science forum.įorgot to mention this, for partial mashes it makes more sense to sparge only once with the full amount of water to get to your pre-boil volume. The actual pH of your (sparge) water is mostly irrelevant, it's the amount of acid (protons) it contains to counteract alkalies. The less there is to extract, the less the buffering capacity, the more the pH can fluctuate. It has all to do with buffering capacity and alkalinity of the grist/water combo in the tun. Bru'n water and Brewer's Friend have excellent mash water calculators/estimators. Unless you have a pH meter (strips are inaccurate) you really don't know what the pH in the tun (or kettle, pot) is, so you need to estimate. We're talking less than a ml to perhaps as much as 5 ml (85-90% acid) in a 23 liter batch. To keep the pH in check, most sparge waters benefit from a slight acid addition (phosphoric or lactic acid) to counteract the rising pH of the thinning mash. This may sound complicated, but once you know and understand the mechanisms and parameters to work within, I hope it makes sense. Chances are 9+9 liters of sparge water is too much. How much depends on that measured gravity of course. If it's higher than 1.010 you can safely add more sparge water. ![]() If it's lower, you're oversparging already, not a big deal, but make a note for next time to use less water in the first sparge, so you have more for the second. If it's at 1.010 then that's all the sparge water you should use, no more. ![]() So to keep it easy, I would add no more than half of that (~4 liters) first, stir and drain some off and measure the gravity room temperature). You don't want the gravity of that last sparge to fall under 1.010, or again, you'd start risking tannin extraction. The gravity of those 2nd runnings may be between 1.020-1.040 depending on your grist bill. To sparge you add your intended 9 liters of water, stir well and drain. After you drain the mash completely, this will be your highest gravity wort, for example, the gravity is 1.080 room temps). Typically you would do 2 sparges of equal volume for best efficiency. I assume you're batch sparging, it's the easiest and fastest. Since you're partial mashing I want to add a few notes on sparging with a "larger volume" of water than "usual" because you're not using a full grain bill. ![]()
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